/\ A great response by Zid here.
The game is still possible to get to endgame gear and max level without money, but it takes time, dedication, a little ingenuity, and a friendly guild sure doesn't hurt.
As he said if you want to be 90/90/90 in a short period of time, money. If you want to have endgame gear fully plussed/statted in a short time, money. If you want to avoid a decent amount of work to get there, money. The game is still that you CAN p2w, but you don't HAVE to... it just makes it easier. If you are willing to put time in and SOME money things go a little faster.
And of course the game is enjoyable without the WIN aspect at all. I know lots of people that just play the game to have fun questing, crafting, and the like, and don't care how they look to other players.